Various approaches in pattern making for garment sector

Today's garment-making technology has exceeded expectations, has become easier to learn and quickly adapt completely to the specific necessities of apparel ... AboutUs PaperSubmission FAQs Blog Testimonials Videos Reprints PayOnline ArticleProcessingCharges ContactUs Sitemap Home OpenAccess Journals eBooks Information ForAuthor ArticleProcessingCharges ForEditor PublicationEthics ForAssociateEditor PeerReviewSystem ForReviewers Policies PlagiarismPolicy WithdrawalPolicy Copyright&Licenses Archiving Membership TrendingJournals BehavioralSciences FoodandNutritionTrends GlobalTrendsinPharmaceuticalSciences HomeJTEFTVariousapproachesinpatternmakingforgarmentsector Submitmanuscript... Journalof eISSN:2574-8114 TextileEngineering&FashionTechnology ReviewArticleVolume4Issue1 Variousapproachesinpatternmakingforgarmentsector DibyenduBikashDatta,1 VerifyCaptcha × Regretfortheinconvenience:wearetakingmeasurestopreventfraudulentformsubmissionsbyextractorsandpagecrawlers.PleasetypethecorrectCaptchawordtoseeemailID. ParthaSeal2 1DepartmentofFashionManagementStudies,NationalInstituteofFashionTechnology,India2KnitwearDesignDepartment,NationalInstituteofFashionTechnology,India Correspondence:DibyenduBikashDatta,DepartmentofFashionManagementStudies,NationalInstituteofFashionTechnology,Plot-3B,Block-LA,SectorIII,SaltLakeCity,Kolkata,WestBengal700098,India,Tel919433327019 Received:October02,2017|Published:January16,2018 Citation:DattaDB,SealP.Variousapproachesinpatternmakingforgarmentsector.JTextileEngFashionTechnol.2018;4(1):29-34. DOI:10.15406/jteft.2018.04.00118 DownloadPDF Abstract Today’sgarment-makingtechnologyhasexceededexpectations,hasbecomeeasiertolearnandquicklyadaptcompletelytothespecificnecessitiesofappareldesigning.Thefitisthemostsignificantdecidingfactorrelatedtothefinalacceptanceorrejectionofagarment.Gettingtorightdesignisasimportantasgettingarightproductwithaperfectfit.Thewell-tailoredfitisdependentonthepatterndraftingintegratingdimensionsofthefitmodelhavingvariousshapes,contourandproportions.Withthebeginningoftheindustrialrevolutionandadvancesintextilesandclothingmanufacturing,standardizedpatternswerevitaltothesuccessofready-to-wearclothing.Newtechnologyplatformsarefacilitatinggreaterflexibilityintheareasofpatterndesigning,grading,markermaking,wastereduction,increaseinefficiencyandaccuracyofthecuttingroomandcreateaccuratesamplesintimetohelpreducecostsaresomeadvantageofusingofcomputer-aideddesign(CAD)systemincompositegarmentmanufacturing.Increaseinproductdevelopmentcosts,theriseinshippingcharges,andawfuldecisionmakingareanentitythatmanybusinessescannotafford.Effortsarerequiredtodriveaproducttogettothemarketfasterandaresaleable.Withthatinmind,useofadvancedtechnologyinapparelmanufacturingisanessentialcompetitiveadvantageforretailers,brands,andmanufacturersalike.Thispaperwasdesignedtounderstandthevariousmethodsofpatternmakingsystems. Keywords:patternmaking,grading,clothing;toile,fit,cad Introduction Patternmakingistheartofdesigningpatternsbymakingtemplatesfromwhichclothingandcraftitemscanbesewn.Apatternmakingprocessactuallyhelptocomeoutwiththeimaginationofdesignerfromthesketchingtillrealproduct.Patternmakersarealsocalled'TechnicalDesigners'.WhenFashionDesignerscompletetheirgarmentdesigning,TechnicalDesignersstartstheirworktopreparethepatternofthegarment.Thegarmentmakingprocessconsistsofdisparateyetinterdependentstages.Theaestheticappearance,correctfitandthedrapeattributesofagarmentdependssignificantlyoneverygarmentmakingprocess.Patternmakingisconsideredasthefirststepingarmentproduction.Whilemakingagarmentasperdesign,templatesareusedtotracethevariousgarmentpartsofsimilarstyleontofabricpriortocuttingandassembling.Generally,patternsaremadeofpaperorcardboardtemplatesthathavebecomeaskilledtechnicalprocessoverthecenturies. Duringthelatemedievalperiod,fabricweavingwasdonemanuallyonprimitiveloomswhichwereaslowandlaboriousprocessandthereforefabricwasconsideredasacovetedcommodity.Rectangularshapedfabricpieceswereusedforgarmentconstructiontominimizewaste.Theseminalartofpatternmakingbeganinthefifteenthcentury.Inplaceofrectangularuncutfabric,pieceswerecarefullycutaspersizeandbody'scontour.1theartofpatternmakingpriortotheindustrialrevolutionwasextremelyrevered.Tailorsworkedmeticulouslytocustomizepatternsbasedontheirclient'spersonalmeasurementsandclothingwaselaborateandsolelyrelegatedfortherich.Theonsetoftheindustrialrevolutionmarkedtheimportanceofstandardizedpatternsforthesuccessofready-to-wearclothing.However,initialattemptsforstandardizedclothingpatternsresultedinthepositiveapproachtowardssystematicsizechartofdifferentregionslikeUSorUKsizechart. Intraditionallycutbespokeclothingbydirectlymarkingmeasurementsonfabricbytailor'schalkweredevelopedforeachcustomer.Whichisalsoknownastailoringmethodinpatterncuttingandhomesewing?Whileincommercialproduction,industrialpatternswereintroducedtocaterthemassproductiontofitseveralstandardsizes.Pattern'blocks'or'slopers'havebeentestedtohaveanimpeccablefitandarealteredtocreateavarietyofnewstyles.Theprocessofdevelopingdifferentsizesofafinishedpatterniscalled'grading'.Ithelpsincreatingalineofdifferentlysizedorcontouredgarmentsthatareyetsimilarlypatterned.Variousfirms sellpre-gradedpatternstoconsumerswhofurthersewthemathome.Commercialclothingmanufacturersusuallyemployspecializedpatternmakertomaketheirownin-housepatternsaspartoftheirdesignandproductionprocess.Patternmakersareresponsibleforensuringassemblingofaccessoriesandgarmentsbysewerandmanufacturers.Eachdesignisexaminedbypatternmakerstofindoutthebestwaytobreakapatterndownintoaseriesofpiecesasperdesignthatcanbereassembled;buildpaperoutlinesofeachpartofthedesignandconfirmthatthedesigncanbeproperlyreassembled;prepareasetofinstructionsthatmay be utilizedbymanufacturertoreassemblethedesignfromthepattern;makenotesonthepatterntopointoutwhereeachpiecebeattachedandwhereeachfeature(button,pocket,zipper,etc.)shouldbelocated. Methodsofpatternmaking Apatternisaguideforcuttingthefabricwhichcanbesewntogethertoformagarment.2Thedifferenttypesofpatternmakingwithintheapparelindustryare: Sloper/Blockpatternmaking FlatPatternTechnique Modelling Computerisedpatternmaking Sloper/blockpatternmaking Itisabasicgarmentpatternwithnoseamallowancefromwhichothersimilarpatternsaredesigned.Itisalsoreferredasbasicpatternorfoundationpatterntodevelopanddesignnewpatternsforgarments.Allbasicsloper/blockisbasedeitherbystandardmeasurementsorbycustommeasurements.Therearetwomethodsforbasicblockpatternmakingwhicharemostlyapplicableinwomen'swear.  Flatpatterntechnique:Involvesavarietyof straightedges,curves,measurements,andcalculationstodrawadraftonpaper.Itisatwo-dimensionalmethodthatmanipulatesanexistingfoundationpattern'sloper'ora'block'.Thedraftiscutoutofmuslinfabrichavingcomfort ease to fit adummybodyoranindividual.Thedesiredchangesaremarkedonthepaperdraft. Makingpatternsfollowingflatpatternmakingmethodiseasysincepatternsarebasedontemplates.Thehardpartisinmakingthetemplateseithermanuallyorbyusingpatternmakingsoftwares.Theylooksimplebutarehardtomakeastheyrequiremanyhumanbodymeasurementsandlotsoftestfitting.Theyshouldbeperfectsinceotherpatternsaredevelopedbasedonthem.Useofcertaingeometricruleswillderivedifferentpatternsfromthebasicblock,andtheywouldfitperfectlyliketheblocks.Oncetheblocksaremade,therestissignificantlyeasiergiventhatthereisnoneedtomeasurethefigureanymore,oreventestfitnewpatternsonit.3 Inflatmethod,thepatternmakertracesthebasicblocksandcarryoutthenecessarymanipulationalongwithessentialsewingandotherallowancestoeachcomponent.Asmallmark ontheoutsideedgeoftheseamallowanceonthepatternismarkedtoensurealignmentandmatchingduringsewingknownas'notches'.Alltheseexercisesproduces'workingpattern'.Oncetestfitisdone,theworkingpatternbecomes'productionpattern' Modelling:Oftencalled'drapingonthestand'isapatterncuttingmethodwhichinvolvesmuslinfabricforfittingofblockgarmentgenerallyonadesignateddummybodyofappropriatesize.Thedesigners/patternmakersmanipulate,markandadjustthethree-dimensionalmock-up(creatingmanyvariationsinstyle)untiltheysatisfyontheshapeandfitness.Mock-upormuslinisalsoreferredas'toile'.Toileisusuallynotneatlyfinishedorhemmedliketheactualgarmentwouldbe,andtheyaremadefromatranslucentcottonorlinenfabricsothatthedesigncanbetestedandperfected.Eachcomponentistransferredontopatternpaperandtherequiredallowancesadded(Figure1). Draping isreferredtoas 'creativepatternmaking'andiswidelyusedinhigh-classfashionbecausethismethodcanprovideaclearviewoftheproducttodesignersinthepatternconstructionprocess.Inthisprocess,designersmayneedtouselotsoffabric.Thestyledpatternsthatareutilizedincuttingtheoriginalgarmentsamplemaybeproducedinvariousways,includingflatmethod,modellingorbothtogether.Modellingmethodismoretimeconsumingthanothertwo-dimensionalmethods.4 Figure1Thedrapingprocessfrom2Dmuslintofinishedgarment.(a)and(b)Useofmuslintodrapefrontbodice;(c)Finishedpatternwithseamallowance;(d)Finishedgarment. Computerisedpatternmaking Computertechnologyhasintegratedintoeveryaspectofourwork-lives.ApplicationsofCAD/CAMmadetheirfirstappearanceinthecuttingroominthe1970s.Inrecentyears,however,computersbecame economical;patternmakingandgradingsoftwarestillremainanexpensiveinvestment.CreatingaflatpatternusingCADistheeasiestandmostadvancedofalldesigntechniquesonceonebecomefamiliarwiththesystemoneisworkingwith.Manynewdesignentrepreneursuseacomputertorelievesomeoftheworkrequiredtodevelopanewstyle.Digitisationofmanualpatternandusingforproductionisalsodoneintheindustry. Thepatternmakerworkbyusingalife-sized,sensitizedtableandastylusattachedtoacomputer.Designersusemanygeometricdesignsthatarebasedonvariousshapesandlinestocreatepatterns.Changescanbemadeeasilyonthescreenifnecessaryandcorrectpatternsgetreadyforfurtheroperationlikegradingandmarkermaking.Computersareusefulformakingpatternsthatarerepetitive.Somepatternmakersdraftonhardpaperandthenusethescannertoconvertthepatternintoacomputerizedformat.Thentheymakethechangesonthepatternon-screen.Themajortechnologicalfeaturesare'patterndesignsystems'and'patterngenerationsystems'.Patterndesignsystemsspeeduptheprocessofpatternmakingandtheyimproveaccuracy.Anexperiencedproductionpatternmakerthatisefficientintheuseofthepatterndesignsystemsdraftstheblockonthecomputerefficientlyandconstructgarmentpatternsbyputtinginplacealltheblockpatternsincurrentuse.Patterngenerationsystemcreatesthepatternfromthepatterncomponentsautomaticallyviapatterndesignsystem(Figure2). Figure2ThedigitalCADsystemforpatternmaking. ManycompaniesuseCADsystemstomakepatterns.CADcanbeusedformanyfashiondesignprocessessuchascreatingdesignsketches,appareldesigning,patternmakingandgrading,draping,virtualimaging,garmentspecificationsheets,storyboards,printsforfabricsandtechnicaldrawings.OverallCADsavestimeduringthedesignprocess,helpstocreatenewdesignideas,showseverydesigncomponents,developsaprototypeandhelpstoamendthenewdesignbeforeproducing.TherearedifferentCADsoftwaresystems;however,thebestcomefromLectraSystems,GerberTechnologies,Tukatech,andOptitex.5 Theprocessofpatternmaking Apatternmakerinterpretsadesign bydraftingitthrough patternpiecesasperthebodymeasurementfollowingasetofinstructionsinordertocreateastyle.Theprocessisknownaspatterndrafting.Individualbodymeasurementsareconvertedintoaseriesofstraightlinesandcurvesontemplatepaper.Atalaterstage,thelinesandcurvesdeterminetheoverallsectionsofthepatternspiecestocutandeventually developareusablepatternandtestedforfit.Patternpiecesrepresentthegarmentinsectionsandhaveinformationonsize,grainline,balancemarks,pockets,andplacementforbuttons,buttonholes,notchmark,seam,andhemallowances.Theyaretermedas'patterninformation'.Specificmethodsandstagesofpatterndraftingvaryfrompatternmakertopatternmaker. The'firstpattern'isthefirstsetofapatternthathasbeenobtainedfrompatterndraftingaspercontinent'ssizecharteitherinwomen'sormen'sweararea.Whereintracingofthemainlineornecessarylinesaredonefromdraftingpatternexcludinganyseamallowances.Seamallowancesaregiveninproductionpattern.Itusuallypreparestocheckthepatternshapeconcerningtothestepsofcutting,copying,folding,modifyingandexperimentingtogetthefirstpatterndevelopedforeachdesignfromthebasicblock.Halfapatternforfront,backandsleevearedevelopedunlessthedesignisasymmetrical(Figure3). Figure3Sloper/Block. (a)Front/Backsloper (b)Basicsleeveforbodicesloper/block Aftertestingorcheckingshapesfromthefirstpattern,seamallowance,trimmingallowance(optional),buttonhole,buttonattaching,dart,pleat,notch,ease,etcareincludedinthecopiedpatternknownasa'workingpattern'.Workingpatternisusedasabaseformanipulationtogeneratedesignpatternsandisrequiredforeverypartofgarments.Workingpatternpiecesarecutandlabelledforpartsnameandgarmentsizetowhichitbelongs.Thispatternisgenerallymadebytracingthebasicblocksonpaperandrequiresfittingandadjustments.Itisthentransferredontoafabricforatestfitpurpose.Thepatternpiecesarestitchedtogetasamplegarment(aprototypeofthedesignsketch)andcheckedforthefitaspertheparticularbodymeasurement.Aftercheckingofthesampleincaseofanyfittingrelatedproblemtheworkingpatternismodifiedtomakeiteligibleforasecondtestfitandiscalled'revisedpattern'.Basedontherevisedpatternstitchingisdoneandcheckedforthefit.Onnecessaryapprovalofthebuyer,therevisedpatternisconsideredtobethe'productionpattern'.3DvisionofapatterncanbeseenonasimulateddummyinCADsoftwaresystems/bodyscanner.Thustheapprovedproductionpatterngoestothefabriccuttingsectionformarkermakingandcutting. Theinterpretationofthedesignisdonebyfollowingpatternmakingruleswhichareprimarilyacquiredthroughexperience.6Thepatternpiecesasperthedesignsketcharederivedfromtheirindividualbasicblockorsloperwhichareusuallywithoutseamsasithindersproportioninganddevelopingdesignvariations.Thesebasicpatternshapesareusedbypatterncuttersforeveryseasontodraftpatternasaclothingreferencewithdifferentfittingeaseforclose-fitting,semi-fitted,fitted,loose-fittingorveryloose-fitting.Easeistheamountofspaceinagarmentbeyondthebodymeasurement.Thespecificamountofeasewillvaryfromstyletostyle. Differentgarmenttypeshavedifferentfashionfeatures.7Afashionfeaturerelatestothevariousphysicalcomponentsofthegarmentanditsgenericshape.Someofthefashionfeaturesaredarts,designlines(linesofillusion),pleats,long/short/lesssleeve,sleeveinregular/raglanstyle,flareskirt,collarlessbodice,taperedtrousers,zipperflyopening,etc.Anythingthatinfluencesthegarmentgeometryisregardedasfashionfeature(Figure4). Figure4ExampleofFlat/manualpattern/draftingsloperofatrouserwithmeasuringinformation. Anarrangementoffashionfeaturesthatarelaidtoapieceofgarmentisdefinedasafashionstyle.Theexistenceofafashionfeaturemayaffecttherelevantbasicblocksbyaffectingtheirshapesanddimensions,involvemarkingstolocatepositionsandcreatesaddedpatternpiecesasperdesign.Accordingly,eachfashionfeatureexclusivelyfollowitspatternmakingrulestatingthedraftingofsuchpattern piecesbelongingtoaparticulargarmenttype.Everypatternmaker,therefore,settheirrulesofunderstandingbasedonthegarmenttypes.Duetothevarietyandpreconceptionofsuchrules,everypatternmakerusuallyspecializesonlyformakingfewtypesofgarment.Hence,theycategorizeanewdesigntoitsapplicablegarmenttyperelatedtotheirrecognizedsetofrulestogetsimilarintermediatestyle.Thefinaldesignisachievedthroughaddition,modificationordeletionofthefashionfeaturesfromtheintermediatestyle(Figure5).8 Figure5Applicationofpatternmakingrules. Patternmaking,therefore,consistsofthreestepnamelyfashionanalysis,specsheetdesign,andpatterndrafting.Newfashiondesignsareanalysedbydisintegratingthemintoalooklikeintermediatestyle.Theintermediatestyleconsistsofvariousgarmentsegmentswhicharefurtherdisintegratedandtermedassecondarypatternpieces.Thesecondarypatternpiecesusuallyhavefeatureslikepleats,flares,darts,andcutstogiverequiredshapesofthegarmentpart.Hence,toexpeditethepatternmakingmethod,oftendesignsareadaptedfromexistingsecondarypatternpieces,inlieuofbasicblockbecauseofitsaccuracyofsizingandpacewithwhichrangescanbedeveloped.Thesedesignshaveminorvariationinfashionstylesincomparetotherelatedsecondaryforms. Patterngradingisstep-wiseincreaseand/ordecreaseofbasesizeorsamplesizeproportionatetospecificinstructionsusingasizespecificationsheetaccordingtomeasurements.Itcanbedonemanuallyorbyusingcomputerizedpatterncuttingsoftwareanddoesnotcreateashapeorchangeshape.Gradingisanessentialstepthatmustbetakenbeforeapproachingsamplemanufacturersorfactoriesbecausetheyrequiresetsofspecificpatternsandanorderofclothingtobeproduced.Gradingdetermineshowthegarmentswillfitinallsizes.Havingarangeofsizesforeachofclothingcategoryfillsoutminimumgarmentordercosteffectively. Althoughfashiontrendscomeandgo,thepatternmakingprinciplesdonotchange.Therulesandmethodsarealwaysfollowedfordesigninganddraftingpatternpieces.Finally,theproductionpatternisachievedthatiscorrectandperfect,containingeverypatternpiecerequiredcompletingthegarment.Intheproduction,apatternhastheseamallowanceandallrequisiteinformationlikegrainline,stylename,size,andsometimesthenumberofcuts.9Differentsignswhichapatternmakerusesinpatternstocommunicatewiththebuyerandtheendusersare(Figure6): Figure6PatternSymbols. Importanceofpatternmaking Patternmakingconvertsasketchintoagarmenthenceitisalinkbetweenthedesignandproduction.Therearethreemajorelements-interpretations,technique,andtechnologythatcompletesthedevelopmentofgarmentpatternmaking.  Interpretation:Thisistheabilitytoreadandunderstandthedesign/sketchanditsobjective,technicalchallengescanberesolvedbyatechnicianbutnoneofitcompletesuntildesigngoalisachieved/accomplished.  Technique:Thepatternmakershouldhavealargesetoftoolswhichcanbeimplied/selectedorusedwhilemakingdifferentspecifications/designsandtoachieveitsresults.  Technology:Toahugeextent,theefficientandfruitfulcustomisedproductionofagarmentisdependentuponthetechnologicalfactsinterpretedintothepatternmaking.One(patternmaker)shouldhavetechnologicalmindsetandshouldunderstandtheproductionimplementationsofeachdetailintherelevantpattern.  Pre-requisite:Forpatternmaking,knowledgeofbasicgeometryisamust,becausepatternmakingistotallybasedonlogicandmathematicalcalculationwhetheritisdonemanuallyorbyusingsoftware. Inthefashionuniverse,designandpatterncuttinggohand-in-hand.Atrulygreatpatterncutterisbehindeverygreatdesigner.Thedistinctivevisualstyleisbasedonthecuttingtechniquesthathavebeenfollowedbytheirpatterncutters. Thepatternprovidestheclearideaofrightstyle&accuratemeasurementsofgarments.Acorrectpatternhelpstomakeanappropriatesampleandcontainsclearinformationonconstruction,sewingallowance,grainline&fabriccuttingdirectionandeliminatesfabricwastage.Incaseofthebulkproductionprocess,thefactorycanestimatetheresourcesrequiredforconstructionofaparticularstylebasedonthepatternandcangetmoreordersfrombuyers.Moreaccurateinterpretationwithpropertechniquesandtechnologyusedreducesthepre-productionprocess,helpingthebuyertoreceivetroublefreeshipment  Designpracticeandpatterninspiration Duringresearchwork,andmostlywhiledevelopingthedesignbriefsfordesignexperiments,differentapproachesarepracticedbythefashiondesignersandpatternmakerstoarriveatthefinaldesignbasedsamplegarment.8Thedifferentpracticesthathavesofarbeenconductedare: Sketch-Pattern-Toile-(Designalteration)-Patternalteration-Samplegarment Pattern-Toile-(Designalteration)-PatternAlteration-Samplegarment Sketch-Draping-Pattern-Toile-(Designalteration)-Patternalteration-Samplegarment Draping-Pattern-Toile-(Designalteration)-Patternalteration-Samplegarment Existinggarment-Sketch-Pattern-Toile-(Designalteration)-Patternalteration-Samplegarment Existinggarment-Pattern-Toile-(Designalteration)-Patternalteration-Samplegarment Conceptualidea-Pattern-Toile-(Designalteration)-Patternalteration-Samplegarment Textileprintonpaper-Drapingpaperonbody-(Sketch)-Pattern-Toile-(Designalteration)-Patternalteration-Samplegarment   Conclusion Ready-madegarmentsindustryisoneofthemostdynamicsectorsintheglobaltrade.Theindustryisexpected,estimatedandgenerateaconsiderableamountofrevenueandemploymentinaglobalperspective.Manufacturinggarmentsareoneofthedemandedbusinessesintheglobalarena.Patternmakingmethodsanditswayofprocessingarecrucialstepsfortheindustry.Withthetechnologicaldevelopmentandinnovation,patternmakingsoftwarepackageshavebecomemoresophisticatedandfinelytunedtoeffectivelyaddresstherequirementsoftheapparelmanufacturer.Thesedays,patternmakingtoolsarecarefullytailoredtoeasilyautomaterepetitivetime-consumingtasksthatcanquicklyrampupmanufacturingtodelivertothefast-movingworldoffashion.Thepatternismostimportanttomakeanaccuratesampletobuyersforcollectingorder.Exceptforpatternitdifficulttomakeasample.Italwaysprovidesclearideatorequireresourcesfortheindustry.Ithelpstoreducefabricwastage. Nomatterhowtechnologyisused,manualpatternmakingisthemotherofpatternmakingsoftwarewithoutwhichnonecanproduceapatternthatwillfitintoaparticularsizewithoutanyalteration.Theindustry'sfirstchoiceistodigitizeaccuratemanualpatternotherwiseevensoftwarewillfailtoproducesatisfactoryresultsonrepeatediterations. Acknowledgements None Conflictofinterest Authordeclaresthereisnoconflictofinterestinpublishingthearticle. References SinghS,SinghR.DevelopmentofaCADtoolforpatternmakingofgarments.InternationalJInnovativeComputerScience&Engg.2017;4(2):11‒15. HulmeWH.Thetheoryofgarment-patternmaking-atextbookforclothingdesigners,teachersofclothingtechnology,andseniorstudents.ReadBooksLtd,Barnes&NobleBooksellers,Inc.NewYork; 2013.p.138. GrossL,RolfoV,ZelinB.NewFashionAreasforDesigningApparelthroughtheFlatPattern.NewYork:FairchildPublications;1972. Technologyandliving.Fashion,clothingandtextilesstrand.Towardsqualitylearningandteaching.Booklet4:Clothingtechnology.EducationBureau,HKSARG,HongKong;2014. 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